Some of these large complexes (sprawling over land the size of London)
were built over one thousand years ago
and this thought is rather overwhelming when you see the detail
and imagine the scope when it was covered in gold
with the bas relief painted bright colors
This being my second time, and since I was visiting my parents who were staying somewhere swank
we had a guide and minivan a/c luxury
So I will bring you in to the labyrinth from the south passage.
WARNING – MASSIVE DETAIL BELOW. READ ONLY IN CASE OF INTEREST, OR RUN AWAY NOW.
There is a moat around Angkor Wat, and it stretches over a km in both directions. the murky waters are full of floating fuchsia lotus flowers, and the end of the bridge is guarded by seven-headed snakes.
Behind the outer wall, you can see the visually stunning skyline over this Hindu temple
Five towers of carved stone so aesthetically pleasing they look like a mirage
especially when the sun shifts from the horizon
When you enter the front gate, there are large Buddha statues draped in saffron robes and white lotus necklace offerings
Then you can see the walls, covered in bas relief chiseled meticulously from ancient stone, depicting triumphs of kings, and roasting of fish, and epic battles. In three layers. It’s hard to take it all in, but they have now stopped the tourists from rubbing the carvings for luck (it turns them dark and shiny. And there is a predilection for rubbing the breasts of the dancing asaras, which is pretty trippy)
There are steps up to the four outer and tall inner towers, but these are so steep and narrow that they have been closed to tourists’ clumsy feet.
Instead, they decided to place cheesy costumed locals in bright makeup and masks to pose for pictures for $1 in the courtyard.
But if you spend time wandering through the site, you will see monks in orange robes meditating (or even taking pictures). You will see small sticks of incense sending wisps of prayers to the sky. You will see the lady selling water has lost a leg to a landmine.
Beyond the south gate, with headless Naga demons lining the road, there is Angkor Thom. This incredible, surreal complex of more Khmer style has pillars with gracious, calm god-kings gazing down from all four sides (over 170 faces).
The next enclosure to see is called the “jungle temple” because there has not been extensive restoration as in the rest of the ancient cities. Huge trees grow crookedly from the mossy walls, and sprawl across doorways, so gigantic that their roots wrap around entire rooms.
The last place to see is called the “rose temple” because the creator used pink sandstone (possibly from India, taking advantage of the river that flows backwards near these sites for some seasons). This stone is so precise that the carvings have rested intact and beautifully detailed. Although not many buildings exist here, they have so many impeccably preserved carvings that it is worth the drive. Also worth the journey is a brief glimpse to how the rest of the country not living on the wealth of Angkor tourists fares. Tiny shacks on stilts, wells in front labeled for the family who donated them, women weaving bamboo baskets while their children hawk them on the roadside.
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